MY GOURMAND PLEASURES

DORDOGNE – TASTE AND SMELL

Eating in France is more than just to satisfy one’s hunger.  It’s a ceremony, a never ending pleasure that  involves our five senses.  Whether you choose for a French pique-nique feast in your hotel room or to dine in a nearby restaurant, that meal will be carefully and lovingly planned. The Dordogne region is known for its rural tradition, the rich variety of products are homegrown in local farms, who are proud of their products, among which foie gras, poultry, truffles, strawberrys and walnuts are  outstanding.  The countryside around Bergerac and Cahors produces excellent quality wines, red wines that pair with roasted duck or cassoulet, white wine with fish or white meat and sweet white wine with foie gras or as an aperitif.

I already told you about the delightful dinner we had at the Auberge des Fontilles the first night of our arrival in Perigord.  The morning after we had a delicious breakfast  gateaux aux noix included, and went south towards Sarlat.  Saturday, day market in Sarlat, the largest food market in the region.  The temptation was too strong,  we bought some cheese, a baguette, foie gras with truffles,  olives and strawberrys –the sweetest I’ve ever had-  and a bottle of Bergerac red wine.  A promising evening at the hotel.    

 Hanging around the cathedral we discovered a charming restaurant for lunch, Le Relais de Poste  http://lerelaisdeposte.com/.  The restaurant has a lunchtime menu, but is highly recommended for dining. 

 Another pleasure you cannot miss is to discover the local goose farms.  We had a brochure of the Farm Foi Gras Jacquin (which we kept as a treasure since our visit to the food market in Paris), http://pagesperso-orange.fr/foiegras-jacquin/, which was conveniently 25km away from Sarlat.  Monsieur and Madame Jacquin shared with us their passion, the farm and farm produce.  We tasted pate de foie de canard and rilletes, until I witnessed with desperation the moment when my husband, deeply moved by the situation, dropped a pot of foie gras mousse.  Apologies duly presented, end of the visit.  Despite the “inconvenient”,  we had a wonderful time.

 

 

FROM GITES TO CHATEAUX

DORDOGNE – PERIGORD  Other hotel recommendations

From gites to chateaux,  chambres d´hotes to hotel chains, there are many accommodation options in France.  Hotel chains were not in mind, we had chosen to experience the relaxed life of the countryside, small towns and medieval villages.

Gites and chambres d´hotes  are usually set in the rural area, and are a quite inexpensive option.  Chambres d´hotes are bed and breakfast, -some luxury bed and breakfast-, and some hosts offer table d´hotes, which provide full or half board.  And believe me, it’s worth to try, for a meal in the Dordogne is a pleasure that cannot be missed.  Chateaux hotels are not as expensive as one may think and you do not need to be a millionaire to be an overnight guest.  Great castles and manor houses, once mansions of kings and noblemen, have been converted into lodging. 

GITES

http://www.gites-du-perigord.com  A holiday village built up from ruined farm buildings not far from Sarlat.  Preferably for groups or families.

http://www.gites-de-france.com/gites/fr/gites_ruraux  

http://en.toprural.com

http://www.bienvenue-a-la-ferme.com/en/accueil.htm

CHAMBRES D´HOTES

http://www.auberge-charmilles.com  A romantic country house in the middle of the medieval market town of Beaulieu Sur Dordogne on the banks of the Dordogne River.

http://www.domainedelapiale.com  The ancient residence, built at the end of the 18th century, is now a beautiful maison d´hote, situated between vineyards, forests and meadows.  Located 30km off Rocamadour. 

http://www.chateau-chabroulie.com   4km Limoges.  This castle in the Limousin region is a family property that offers both bed and breakfast rooms in the castle (chambres d´hotes in the chateau) and a gite – La Metairie- for groups or families, besides the service of table d´hotes for lunch. 

CHATEAUX & HOTELS

http://www.vieux-logis.com/ In the heart of the Perigord Noir, 50km form Sarlat la Caneda and 110 km from Rocamadour, an ideal starting point for a journey into the Dordogne valley and villages.  Gourmet meals in different but spectacular dining rooms or in the terrace in summer.

http://www.moulinabbaye.com/ 80km Limoges  A Relais & Chateaux recommendation, Le Moulin de l´Ábbaye offers three outstanding properties, the main house, La Maison du Meunier and La Maison de l’Abbé.  Prices range from €290 to €300 for room only.  Wonderful setting.

http://www.chateau-hotel-perigord.com/ The Domaine des Reynats is located in Chancelade, in the outskirts of Perigueaux.  Book a room in the charming Orangerie, in the intimate gardens next to the château or the Dordogne Room in the main building.  

http://www.ferme-lamy.com  Meyrals, just outside Sarlat.  

http://www.closlaboetie-sarlat.com/index.html  Sarlat

http://www.lepontdelouysse.fr  Lacave, 11km away from Rocamadour in the Lot region, this Hotel de Charme in the middle of the countryside also offers gourmet cuisine and bedrooms with a magic touch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

DORDOGNE –SLEEPING

Though we could stay the night in Perigueux, we wanted to experience the wide range of accommodations that France has to offer, and we looked for a Gite to start with. http://www.gites-de-france.com/gites/fr/gites_ruraux  

Gîtes are generally old farmworkers cottages or converted outbuildings and barns in a rural setting, within the proximity of the owners’ principal residence.  Usually you find the Gite sign –a red rooster- on rural roads or you may plan ahead and make reservations.  L’Auberge des Fontilles, http://www.auberge-des-fontilles.fr  is owned by Coustou family and offers “chambres”, -rooms-, for rent.  It is located 22km south of Periguex, towards Sarlat, just 25 minutes away.  We arrived there and we immediately felt as at home.  The family warmly welcomed us and showed us our room, a separated cottage with a private bath, very simple, but neat and clean.  They asked us if we were going to have dinner there, we were really hungry, and we were not going anywhere that night so we said yes.  After taking a quick shower we went to the restaurant in the principal house, where our hostess introduced us to the secrets of the cuisine Perigourdine. To begin we ordered foi gras and a sweet wine of Monbazillac, a perfect pair.  As main course, magret de canard with stuffed potatoes, this time we choose a red wine from Bergerac. We were very tired and went to sleep without tasting the marvelous gateaux aux noix (Walnut cake) but it had been too much for just one day.

There are so many places to visit in this area, that planning ahead is a must, especially if you don’t have much time.  We had only three days to visit this region, and if we relied on our Michelin Guide, there were so many places to visit that time was precious.  

Early in the morning we left our Gite and set off to the south, to Rocamadour, just an hour and a half away.  This time we would stay two nights at a country hostel in the outskirts of Rocamadour, 2.5km away.  Les Vieilles Tours, is a quiet and charming Relais Gastronomique with beautiful rooms and stunning views of the countryside http://www.vieillestours-rocamadour.com/  

This would be our starting point to the many sites to visit in the Dordogne Valley.

 

 

 

DORDOGNE - ARRIVING

We awakened on a beautiful sunny morning, a perfect day to re discover the magic of Paris or to stroll along the streets, after our delicious café au lait and croissants.  After wandering for about an hour, time runs fast when you are in Paris, we saw something that looked like a food street market, and we quickened towards that unexpected marvel.   It turned out to be more than a mere street market.  The main producers of Dordogne and Perigord gathered along ten blocks or more, showing, selling and offering delicious tastings of their wines and regional food products, (poultry, foie gras, walnut cakes, truffles and other delicatessen).  Needless to explain, that same afternoon we hired a car and prepared our four day trip to the promised land.  

We checked the Michelin Guide, www.viamichelin.com , and started early the morning after via Limoges towards Perigueux, in the Perigord Blanc, our first stop.  We would have a five hour drive, in which we agreed to stop every two hours for a rest. From Perigueux to the south, opens the Vezere Valley and the Dordogne Valley, within which we find the Perigord Noir region and beautiful landscapes of green fields, forests and rocky cliffs. Besides, the Perigord Noir cuisine will take you straight to heaven. 

Spring and Autumn are the best times to visit this region, Summer might be a bit uncomfortable, temperatures climb to 30-35 degrees and Winter gets very cold and rainy.

We took the Boulevard Peripherique trying to follow the signs to take the A10  but  after an hour we went on spinning around.  If you don’t get lost in the Peripherique, you haven’t been to Paris.  Finally we managed to get out and then yes, we were able to read our map and follow instructions without being dizzy.

 After nearly four hours drive (counting the nightmare of the Peripherique), we stopped near Limoges for some snack, but being in France, snacks are more like a complete meal.  After touring around the old quarter of Limoges, making our way through the Rue of la Boucherie and visiting the Musée Adrien-Dubouché, which exhibits the renowned porcelain of Limoges, we set off to the medieval city of Saint Leonard de Noblat, 20 minutes away from Limoges.  In this charming town, we had a wonderful gourmet meal at Le Grand Saint Leonard, http://www.hotelrestaurantlegrandsaintleonard-limousin.com/gb/default.htm

We arrived Perigueux at noon, a bit tired but still willing to explore the capital of the Perigord.  http://www.tourisme-perigueux.fr/default.asp

http://www.best-of-perigord.tm.fr/communes/perigueux/perigueux_uk.html

 

 

OTHER VERY NICE THINGS TO DO IN COSTA RICA

·         A visit to the Central Valley and the Volcanoes  Located south of San Jose, this region deserves a visit. Don’t miss Cartago, the oldest city of the country and former capital, established in 1563. The Sunday Market in Cartago is beautiful.

·         Manuel Antonio National Park  Spectacular beaches, bewitching views and lush and green tropical forest.  http://www.costaricabureau.com/nationalparks/manuel.htm

·         Tortuguero Nacional Park  Located on the Caribbean Coast, there are no roads to Tortuguero, you may access by boat from Moine, near Puerto Limon or by small plane.  Better to take a tour if you are an independent traveler. http://www.tortugueroinfo.com/

·         Canopy Tours

·         The Pacific Coast 

 

WHITE WATER RAFTING - THE PACUARE

This probably was by far the most hilarious part of our trip.  We were staying at the Costa Rica Marriot in San Jose and made reservations for a one day Class IV white water rafting the Pacuare River.  The people of Aventuras Naturales picked up us at the hotel early in the morning and after a 3 hour bus ride into the mountains and –again- through the Braulio Carrillo Highway, this time at 8 a.m., we arrived to our starting point where professional guides and rafting equipment were waiting.  We were five so we did not share the boat with anybody but the guide, who did a very good job.  After a few recommendations and security instructions, we put on our life vests and red helmets and began our adventure.  The Pacuare is not very challenging, but offers  quite a lot of rapids, from Class III to IV.  We paddled the whole river in a day, but you can also hire a two day trip with an overnight stay, www.pacuarelodge.com. The river snakes between a dense tropical forest, waterfalls, indigenous villages, and canyon walls.  Five minutes after we began our journey, we were all alone amid spectacular landscapes with the real feeling of being connected with nature.  The river flowed peacefully for the first kilometers of its course to the Caribbean Sea while the guide introduced us to the mysteries of rafting.  Suddenly we met the first of the 38 rapids and the guide began to shout “remen, remen”, we began to paddle like mad to beat the first challenge.  This first time was kind of confusing, one of us is left handed, so  while the guide and four of us paddled in one way, the other went the wrong side and we began to circle around with no success until we found our way out.  We agreed to match  things better for the next rapid.  During the four hours of our river adventure, we experienced the adrenaline and fun of paddling powerful rapids, also magic moments in which we enjoyed the beauty of the surrounding wildlife. 

 

SALSA BRAVA – KILLER 6 METER HEAVY WAVE

One night after dinner I noticed that the boys, always looking for the latest news about waves, winds and swell, were listening carefully to a young man sitting not far from us.  As we knew later, he was a reporter working for a Surf Magazine, who was waiting for the exact moment in which the Salsa Brava would come from the deep ocean over the shallow reef.  Puerto Viejo is a surfer’s paradise, mainly because of this thick wave called Salsa Brava.  It seemed that this phenomenon would happen the day after, at six o’clock in the morning.  It was obvious that they would be there, and I couldn’t help to be concerned about that “slight” inconvenient.

Next morning, at 5.30 a.m. I was awakened by loud knocks at the door:  the boys were leaving towards their close encounter with the Salsa Brava.  I must admit, I felt asleep again.  At eight I woke up, and realized the situation.  We jumped out of bed and rushed towards the beach.  When we arrived there was no trace of the boys and fortunately everything seemed calm, a lot of guys were surfing and we assumed that ours were among them.  We were wrong.  We saw one of the boys sitting far away staring at the sea, he was really mad, he hated the sea, the reef, the waves, especially the Salsa Brava.  Though the famed Salsa Brava didn’t show, the fast and dangerous waves were enough challenge and he tried to paddle out as quickly as he could through a small channel in coral reef, which turned out to be a serious task due to the shallow waters and strong currents.  There were not big collateral damages, just a few scratches and a broken board.  http://www.surf-costarica.com/surfing-destination-puerto-viejo.shtml

Puerto Viejo is famous for its wonderful beaches, whether you are looking for top surfing or just good swimming.  The best months for surfing are November and December, through April.  Further south to Punta Mona, stretch some of the best beaches in Costa Rica.  Playa Cocles is a white sand beach 3km south of Puerto Viejo, good for relaxed surfers who are not in search of adrenaline and advanced swimmers.  Playa Chiquita is a small deserted beach fringed with palm trees, an excellent place to get lost and spend hours snorkeling, swimming and sunbathing in a peaceful lovely setting.  Punta Uva, 7km south from Puerto Viejo, is a natural blessing, one of the most beautiful beaches in the country.   We had lunch at “El Ranchito” restaurant on the beach and a great fun kayaking and swimming until sunset. Check the Iguana Verde Tree House Lodge, www.costaricatreehouse.com to experience a romantic stay in a luxurious wilderness retreat, right in front of the Punta Uva Beach, one of the best eco lodges of Costa Rica. The sleepy Manzanillo is the last town south of Puerto Viejo.  The golden sand beach flanked with tropical jungle offers moderate surf and some diving and snorkeling areas.

From Manzanillo to Punta Mona there are no roads, this wildlife reserve is a fantastic place for trekking among tropical forests and gorgeous beaches.  http://www.costarica.com/Places-To-See/Parks,-Reserves-and-Protected-Areas/Gandoca%11Manzanillo-National-Wildlife-Refuge/

 

 

TINY VILLAGE CHARM – PUERTO VIEJO AND SURROUNDINGS

Nowadays Latinos and African residents blend with young surfers, European expats and visitors from all over the world.  Rasta culture, sounds of reggae and calypso come alive in this charming tiny village.   But it wasn’t always the same.  An Afro Caribbean community, mainly Jamaicans, settled along the coast by 1800, founding the villages of Puerto Viejo, Punta Uva and Manzanillo.  The Southern Caribbean remained isolated from the mainstream Costa Rica until the late seventies, when, by 1979 a road connected Puerto Viejo and Limon and in 1986 came electricity.  Internet became available in 2006.  As a result of this isolation, the Caribbean region existed independently with a culture and lifestyle of its own.

You make your way into the village of Puerto Viejo through a dirt road in from the highway, with cacao and plantain trees stretching out beside the road and the sea on the left.  This small town is very popular for it is rated among the top surfing destinations in the world. The rainy season lasts from May to September; calm weather from November through April.  The area is humid, incredibly humid, (I never succeeded in totally drying my clothes) and warm. The town has only six dirt-paved streets, and fortunately lacks of the large development of the Pacific Coast, the atmosphere is laid-back, with a strong afro-Caribbean vibe, the local residents are friendly and welcome visitors with a great smile.  The funky center of the village is full of craft stands, cabinas, bars, restaurants, dogs, and friendly people.  

 

 

You don’t need a car to cruise the town, you may rent bikes or motor bikes, but we did have a car (we were five) and we were in trouble when we ran out of gas.  We hadn’t seen a gas station in Puerto Viejo, but yes, there was one, a kind of convenience store. We could buy a couple of gallons of gasoline from the large plastic barrels stored out at the back of a green wooden cabin, and Tony, the attendant, poured it through a funnel into the gas tank. We thanked Tony and continued our way south to Manzanillo, few kilometers away from the Panama border.  The dirt road was full of potholes, but we were rewarded with some of the nicest beaches on this line of the Caribbean Coast, Playa Cocles, Punta Uva and Punta Mona.

 

At night, (sun goes down at six) Puerto Viejo comes alive, but we did not go wild at all.  Usually at ten thirty we had already finished dinner, kids were sleeping and we began to enjoy the silence of nature, leaving the reggae dance at Johnny’s Place to the younger ones.

 

OTHER ACTIVITIES

 

• Be sure to stop at the ATEC office, opposite Soda Tamara.  ATEC  acts as a tourist information bureau and post office and arranges everything from adventure tours to personalized trips.  
• Visit Cahuita and Cahuita National Park
• Travel to Bocas del Toro Archipielago, just across the Panamanian border.

 

 

 

 

 

EATING - TASTE AND SMELL

A path through the jungle led us to the open air dining room of the “Shawandha”, under a huge palm roof and decorated in a Balinese – Tahitian style, where we really enjoyed our breakfasts and relaxing cocktail hours.  The menu offers fusion cuisine, blending French recipes with tropical flavors, which happens to be a good and tasty combination. 

 

As for Puerto Viejo itself (and surroundings) there is a wide selection of food available, mainly Italian.  Local cuisine is mainly represented by “sodas”, small eateries which offer affordable meals and are managed by local women, look for Miss Irma, Miss Sam, Miss Dolly, Miss Helena, Soda Tamara, etc. etc.  Some don’t even have a sign. Essential dish to try:  the “casado” (married man): rice and beans (gallo pinto) with cabbage salad, fried eggs, fried plantains, and either meat, fish or chicken.  A worthwhile experience, believe it or not.  For dessert, ask for a banana pancake. 

 

For good Italian cuisine make your way to “Amimodo”, just past Puerto Viejo town.  The ocean is just a few steps away, and the bar features a big screen TV that broadcasts mainly sport games; guess what, it was the opposite sex favorite.  THE place for pasta and pizza with exquisite sauces, also for grilled fish with Italian herbs.

 

Caribbean food is often spicy with a Jamaican influence and offers mixed flavors of coconut milk, ginger, curry, pepper and chiles.  Street vendors offer a large array of fruits like mangoes, papayas, pineapples.  Also bake goods as pan bon, a dark sweet bread and spicy meat pies called “pati”.

 

OTHER RESTAURANT RECCOMENDATIONS

 

“La Pecora Nera”   Cocles, between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo.  Fancy Italian restaurant

 

“Cha Cha Cha”  Main road, Cahuita  Sea Food

 

“Miss Edith”  Near the Police Station, Cahuita.  Home cooked meals

 

 

 

THE RECIPE

 

GALLO PINTO  (Beans and rice) 

This dish is eaten usually three times a day, as part of every meal

Ingredients

1 cup of cooked rice
1 cup of cooked beans
1/4 cup broth from black beans

1 chopped onion (small)
1 small chopped red pepper
2 cloves of garlic chopped
2 spoonfulls of olive oil
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
4 tablespoons of Salsa Lizano  –you can use Worcestershire sauce-
Salt and fresh black pepper

Fry onion, red pepper, garlic, in the olive oil, about 5 minutes until brown
Pour in the beans and the broth, then the rice.  Combine until the broth is gone. Add the Salsa Lizano, salt, black pepper and cilantro . Let it cook for a few minutes, but don’t let it dry out.

 

 

Accompany with:

Cheese
Green Salad
Eggs (fried or scrambled )

 

 

 

 

THE MAGIC TOUCH

OTHER HOTEL RECCOMENDATIONS

 

Though I recommend  Shawandha Lodge as the best option in Puerto Viejo and surroundings if you are looking for a comfortable, clean, classy atmosphere and charming place, you may as well do a thorough search at  

 

www.vacationcity.com/costa-rica/hotels/puerto-viejo

 

 

In San Jose, we enjoyed a four night stay at the Costa Rica Marriott Hotel San Jose, a feast on every sense.  The hotel was a perfect base from which to visit the Volcan Arenal and our white water rafting trip on the Pacuare River.  It is far from the city centre, but only 10 minutes away from the airport.  

 

Built in a colonial hacienda style, it reminded us of the settings of the movie “El Zorro”. Solid wooden doors and armoires, large and comfortable bathrooms, big Spanish street lamps decorated the outdoors everywhere, elegant atmosphere.  

 

One of the boys made probably the best review:  “Just the same as the hotel of “Home Alone”.  This adorable thirteen year old misbehaved all morning and in the afternoon we left him alone at the hotel, we strongly believed  this would be a sort of punishment but it was the best afternoon he ever had!!!!!!!  He spent a wonderful time at the outdoor swimming pool, afterwards he went to the driving range to hit some balls, then he relaxed at the outdoor whirlpool and last but not least, he asked for a room service and rented some movies and a Play Station, besides eating almost every snack of the mini bar.  No comment.

 

http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sjocr-costa-rica-marriott-hotel-san-jose/

 

If you are a spa and nature lover, you may choose between two wonderful options.  The Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort, in the Arenal Region, near San Jose,  and El Silencio Lodge & Spa, in Bajos del Toro.

www.tabacon.com.

 

www.elsilenciolodge.com